Plant the trees that stand up to wind.

Pruning for strength

• Good structure from early pruning helps trees survive storms. [Source 2]
• Hire an ISA-certified arborist for anything above ground level.
• No topping. No lion-tailing. No flush cuts. No wound paint.

Right tree, right spot

• Look up: keep big trees away from power lines.
• Look down: call 811 before you dig. https://sunshine811.com/
• Live oaks can spread 60–120 feet. [Live oak page below]
• Plant large trees like live oaks at least 20–30 feet from your house and power lines. [Source F]
• Give each large tree at least a 30-by-30-foot patch of open soil for roots. Trees with more rooting space survived hurricanes better. [Source 2]
• If you have room, plant in groups of five or more sharing the same soil. Trees in groups stand up to storms better. [Source G]
• Close to the house, choose a smaller tree. [Source H]
• Avoid low spots where storm surge pools salt water.
• More help: Florida-Friendly Landscaping, https://ffl.ifas.ufl.edu/

How live oaks held up in Hurricane Ivan, and how trees can change the wind around a house: see When the wind arrives on our eco-tour.

Native canopy trees for coastal Santa Rosa County

• Live oak (Quercus virginiana): our classic shade tree. Grows 60–80 feet tall and 60–120 feet wide. Tolerates salt and drought. Highest wind resistance.
• Sand live oak (Quercus geminata): smaller cousin. Great for sandy, coastal yards. Highest wind resistance. (Not for direct beachfront salt spray.)
• Southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora): evergreen, big blooms. Needs room; gets 60–80 feet tall. High salt-spray tolerance.
• American holly (Ilex opaca): smaller evergreen, 35–50 feet. Strong survivor in Ivan.
• Sabal palm (Sabal palmetto): Florida's state tree. Very wind-firm. Handles salt spray on its leaves, but not salt in its roots, so avoid spots where storm surge floods the ground.

Sources: FR174 (Source 1); https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/trees-and-shrubs/trees/live-oaks/

Understory natives

Yaupon holly, wax myrtle, dahoon holly (moister spots), saw palmetto, coontie, southern red cedar (sunny edges).

Avoid near homes

Laurel oak and water oak. Only 66% and 65% came through Ivan, and they're prone to decay and breakage as they age. [Source 3]

Buying and planting

• Plant small: 15–30 gallon trees establish faster and grow more wind-firm. [Sources C11, S]
• Ask for trees graded Florida Fancy or Florida No. 1 under the state's Grades and Standards for Nursery Plants (2022 edition): https://www.fdacs.gov/About-Us/Publications/Plant-Industry-Publications
• Pick a tree with a single central trunk. (Buyer advice, not part of the grade definition.)
• Dig a hole 2–3 times as wide as the root ball, and no deeper. [Source P]
• Find the root flare, where the top root leaves the trunk. Set it level with the ground or slightly above. Never bury it. [Source P]
• Cut any roots circling the trunk, and shave off the outer inch of the root ball. It makes the tree sturdier in wind. [Sources P, R]
• Backfill with the same soil you dug out. No amendments needed. [Source P]
• Stake only if needed, and remove stakes within a year. [Source P]

Mulch

• Spread mulch 2–3 inches deep in a circle at least 8 feet wide.
• Leave a 1-foot gap around the trunk. No mulch volcanoes.
• Skip cypress mulch. [Sources M, P]
• Oak leaves make fine mulch. (Practical advice.)

Watering a new tree

• Each time, use 2–3 gallons per inch of trunk width, poured over the root ball.
• For trees under 2 inches: water daily for 2 weeks, every other day for 2 months, then weekly until established. [Source W]
• For 2–4 inch trees: daily for 1 month, every other day for 3 months, then weekly. [Source W]
• Establishment takes about 4 months per inch of trunk in north Florida. [Source W]
• Skip watering if the root ball is soggy.
• Be ready to water through dry spells the next summer.

[Sources S, P, W]

Before you cut, call an arborist. Before you plant, check the spot. Before you remove, check with the city.